Saturday, February 7, 2009

Boy in Baucau


This boy was hanging out with his siblings near the community radio station in Baucau. He had just finished his bowl of rice. He was very shy and I snapped this picture as he was playing with his friends.

The community radio station broadcasts about four hours a day because of power cuts. The transmitter sits in a tiny building out back -- in the middle of a corn field.

Baucau and Back


Baucau is Timor Lestes' second largest city. I wish I lived there! It's much cooler than Dili and sits on a hill overlooking the sea. It's very green -- it's almost like the houses have been dropped into a lush tropical forest.

My colleagues and I stayed at the Pousada -- probably the nicest hotel in Timor Leste -- the building is painted hot pink!

The road from Dili to Baucau is pretty good, most of the way, hugging the sea -- and at one point climbing several hundred meters above the pounding surf. Sharp cliffs, covered with long, bright green grass, plunge toward the sea.

Inside Looking Out

Sunday, February 1, 2009

Points South

Swimming with the Fishes


The day began with a threat of rain, but that didn't stop my colleague Mario and me from venturing over the mountain from Dili -- to a snorkeling spot -- located behind the Jesus statue that sites on a point just east of Dili.

The snorkeling in Timor Leste can be awesome. Just wade into the water and suddenly there's the reef -- teeming with starfish, iridescent fish, lobsters and the most amazing coral -- a rainbow of colors.

This first snorkeling spot was so-so, so we headed further east to a spot about 41 kilometers away from Dili -- known to divers and snorkelers as K-41 -- as in the kilometer marker. K-41 was absolutely fantastic. The coastline is rocky -- nice round stones that make it easy to get into the water. Once you swim a few yards -- the reef is straight ahead and then the most incredible cliff -- it drops straight down -- and if you swim over it -- you're treated to a feast for the eyes. The fish like this spot -- and as you float overhead -- the water current is suddenly cold, then warm, the cold again.

The coral gently sways with the current -- it's almost hypnotic. Little fish dart back and forth from little caves in the reef. An iridescent starfish sits on the bottom -- unmoved by the current.

As the sun comes out, the underwater colors change dramatically -- becoming sharper and brighter.

By mid afternoon we'd worked up a big appetite and stopped by Victoria's Restaurant near Dili where you pick you fish and they grill it up for you. Our eyes were bigger than our appetites, we also ordered some of the biggest prawns I'd ever seen. Nothing went to waste -- the restaurant cats and dogs -- finished the leftovers.

Saturday, January 24, 2009

Sunday, January 18, 2009

The Road to Same (Sah-MAY)


As we pulled out of Dili, the road started a steady ascent into the hills and then suddenly the road became like a corkscrew -- zigging and zagging -- up the mountain. It was only a handful of miles, but the hairpin turns turned it into a 30-40 minute climb through a dense, lush tropical forest.

Once on top, we drove along the ridge line and thick fog -- until the road began to descend the other side of the mountain.

The road is very narrow, hardly enough room to pass, trucks and buses must slow way down to avoid knocking each other's mirrors off. Drivers must also constantly watch for small children who are playing in the roadway or along the edge -- often they are walking along the road -- balancing small sacks on their heads -- heading home from the local market with fruits and vegetables.

It began to rain, and that creates the potential for wash outs -- particularly around bridges. As we travel along, we spot a young girl who has improvised an umbrella with a large banana leaf and a small stick -- it actually looked quite fashionable!

We were bound from Dili, the capital of Timor Leste, to a small town called Same -- pronounced Sah-MAY. It took us about five hours -- at times -- driving through forests of coffee plants -- so thick the road becomes a single lane with coffee plants creating a canopy over the roadway.

Along the way is the lovely little town of Maubisse -- surrounded by mountains with a narrow river valley to the south. My Timorese colleague, who is from Maubisse, told that according to legend during the time of the dinosaurs -- a dinosaur was moving through the valley and died -- blocking up the river and threatening the town. Uncertain what to do, the town eventually convinced a mouse to go find the dinosaur remains -- and eat it. The mouse did so, the water was allowed to pass through the valley again and the town was saved.

Maubisse has an incredibly busy market -- particularly on Sundays after church. We happened to be there on Sunday and checked it out. It is the place to be seen -- people come from all the neighboring villages to shop and chat -- there are so many people -- the road is virtually blocked -- vehicles must creep along at 5 miles an hour to avoid hitting anyone.

On a nearby hillside is the local cemetery that has been used for centuries. My colleague's mom and brother and sister are buried there -- and we brought candles and lit them on the tombstones to honor the dead.

Maubisse has more horses than it has people. They are used to ferry supplies to and from the market -- at one building -- five or six horses were tied up outside -- just like a scene in a wild west movie.

In Same (Sah-MAY), we arrived for a ceremony to celebrate recent renovations at the local Community Radio station. It was pouring rain by the time we arrived -- and we all had to shout to be heard over the pounding rain on the metal roof of the outdoor pavillion. Eventually, the rain stopped and we made our way over to the station. It was renovated with funds from the project that I am working on in Timor Leste.

Two dozen young people took part in the ceremony -- many of whom are actively involved in the station. The local mayor and the chief of police came, too, as did the United Nations police officers -- who help keep the peace -- one was from Nepal and the other was from Sri Lanka. Both had been living there for about a year -- and absolutely love the peace and quiet and the cool air -- it is 15 degrees cooler than in Dili -- with almost no humidity and a lot fewer mosquitoes.

As we made our way back to Dili, the following day, after overnighting in Maubisse -- on a hilltop over looking the city -- in a house where, during colonial times, the Portuguese governor resided, we could feel the heat and humidity returning -- we finished our trip with a visit to Victoria Restaurant -- on the edge of town and at the edge of the sea. We ate fresh fish and tiger prawns -- as gentle breezes kept us cool.

Tuesday, January 13, 2009

The Old Depot in Marshall, NC on Friday Night


Still in Dili, but ran across this picture that I snapped just after Christmas in Marshall, NC. Every Friday night at the old train station there's live music. It's packed with locals who sing, dance and walk for cakes. It's the place to be on Friday night for traditional, folk and old-time country music.

Sunday, January 11, 2009

Roosters and Lizards

I was up at 3am -- blame it on jetlag.

I awoke to the night creatures -- creatures that I had missed while I was home in the states.

The two crowing roosters, in the neighborhood, one sounds normal, the other sounds like he uses one of those mechanical devices at his throat to crow. The normal sounding guy is the lead off, followed by Mr. Mechanical.

Off in the distance, I hear other roosters and the occasional dog -- except when the heavy rain on the roof drowns out everything else. The rainy season has finally begun!

The other night sound that I missed was the Toke -- a beloved lizard here in Timor Leste. If you have a Toke in your midst, you are very lucky. I like them, too, because they eat mosquitoes.

The Toke has a particular sound -- almost mechanical -- it almost sounds like it is saying To-ke, To-ke, To-ke -- hence the name. It's quite startling the first few times you hear it, but you do get a warning -- a scratching-like sound and then three or four To-ke's.

I've never seen the Toke, but my colleagues tell me these lizards can be up to five inches long -- much larger than the gekos -- which I also enjoy having around -- since they, too, feast on mosquitoes -- and make a more gentle, clicking-like sound.

Friday, January 9, 2009

Pampered in Singapore

The airport here in Singapore really pampers the traveler -- and for those with long layovers there is plenty to do. There's a free shuttle into the city -- which takes about 35-40 minutes -- depending on traffic, there are free nap areas, free gaming, massage, a free movie theater with comfortable seats that shows films 24 hours a day, free WI-FI, tons and tons of free internet portals -- and lots and lots of shops.

This is my third visit to Singapore and it is always a pleasure to spend a few hours or a few days here.

Yesterday, I visited the Singapore Art Museum, where there was a new exhibition on modern Korean paintings. One painter, Kim Tschang Yeul, uses droplets of water on his still wet oil canvas to create an amazing transparency. The sprinkles of water give his paintings lots of depth and texture.

Water and oil mix well in this medium.

Before the art museum, I stopped by two temples -- one Hindu, the Sri Krishnan Temple, and the Chinese temple, The Goddess of Mercy. They are almost side-by-side -- located on Waterloo Street in the City Center.

The photo on the right is one of two statues that guard the entrance to the temple. There is a rather large Hindu population in Singapore.

Tuesday, January 6, 2009

Returning to Timor

Tomorrow I return to Timor Leste after a long, somewhat relaxing, break in the US. I had a chance to hike a few hills and mountains, commune with nature, visit some friends and spend a lot of time with family.

In some ways, it was a difficult visit. My grandmother, the woman who essentially raised me, passed away two days after Christmas.

I was lucky to be able to spend time with her beforehand. She lived a long, rich life. She was 99, but looked much younger. At times, she was amazed at her long life. She told one of her health care workers just a day or two before her death -- "can you imagine living 99 years?"

I would joke with her that she was around before the Bolshevik Revolution -- and then she outlived it. My grandma passed away almost five months to the day that she would have been 100.

My other grandma, who is 91, lives in a nursing home and I was able to visit with her every day. When I first saw her, she was lying in her bed, curled up, eating almost nothing -- and when she spoke -- it was in a whisper.

I was so lucky to see her come out of this -- her appetite came back -- at first I fed her, but she was soon sitting up in bed and eating on her own. She loved for me to push her around in her wheelchair -- and she loves to laugh. It was very difficult to leave her. She is in good hands with my mom.

I think it is so amazing how we humans love to be touched -- I rubbed my grandma's face and forehead -- and held her hand -- I could feel her responding to being touched. It is so vital to human life and re-generation.

Thursday, December 25, 2008

Merry Christmas!

It was really great to be able to wake up early and watch my nieces and nephews crowd around the Christmas tree and rip the wrap off their gifts to the sound of Let it Snow, Let it Snow, Let it Snow on the Ipod. It was a snow-less day -- unseasonably warm, actually. Quite nice.

My brother and I took advantage by riding down to a neighbors' farm to check out his buffalo herd -- the kids weren't interested in straying from the house since they had their new Ipods and other electronic goodies.

The herd of buffalo reside about three miles from my parent's home -- and apparently belong to the actor Dan Ackroyd.

Our next stop was a stroll along the streets of Marshall -- reminiscing about the shops that were there when we were kids and how the town has -- in the last few years -- sprung back to life -- with three restaurants, a coffee house, grocery store and several art galleries. Boom town!

As I write this, I am relaxing with my youngest niece and nephew -- they're playing Twister -- in between whacking each other with their new stuffed toys -- I'm vowing not to eat any dinner tonight -- since my mom cooked one of the best Christmas meals I've had in a long time. The corn casserole at lunch was awesome!