Saturday, May 15, 2010

Bye Bye Holiday

I spent a lot of time here -- the hotel swimming pool in Legian -- like in Dili, it's the rainy season in Bali, but I loved the overcast skies -- a break from the sun.

When not shopping, rafting or visiting bird and reptile parks, I was reading Christos Tsiolkas' book The Slap -- pool side - surrounded by friendly Australians. The book offers a glimpse into life in Melbourne in the double-aughts. It focuses on an incident at a party -- a slap -- and how it affects/changes the lives of the various characters. It's written by a Greek-Aussie. At times, I almost need a translation -- particularly when characters refer to "bogans" -- something along the lines of a redneck -- and when the writer uses the word "arvo" which is short for afternoon.

I highly recommend this book.

The poolside photo show Krishna riding behind Arjuna on his chariot -- the pool attendant is giving the horses a good cleaning.




Thursday, May 13, 2010

Birds and Reptiles

The Bali Bird Park is truly impressive. The brochure says 250 species of birds. Here are a few of them, along with a photo or two from the Reptile Park located just next door.











Bali - Around Legian

Armed with my camera, I go for strolls daily around the neighborhood of my hotel -- along the beach, the narrow streets, the shopping districts. There's always gamelan music nearby -- it is subtle and kind of drifts through the air like the wonderful incenses that are burning at the tiny temples -- seemingly 50 feet apart -- tended by girls and women -- who also make fruit offerings to the Gods -- oranges, mangoes, apples and -- even the occasional cigarette.
One of my favorite supermarkets in Seminyak. It's called Bintang (as in the Indonesian beer).
Drumming on the beach at night in Legian.
The resting Buddha at the hotel restaurant.
Coke is everywhere -- even right outside the temple gate.
Buy a trinket and get a massage -- all in one -- on the beach in Legian.
Surf's up!

Thursday, May 6, 2010

Bali - Normal vs Exotic

I was chatting with a colleague the other day in Dili, the day before I flew to Bali. We both agreed that Bali is exotic depending on where you are coming from in the world. If you are coming from...say...Australia or the United States, Bali would certainly feel "exotic."

If, however, you are coming from a place like Timor-Leste -- Bali just feels normal. That's not to say I don't like Timor-Leste. I do. It is my home. However, in Bali, there is a lot more to do -- museums, great restaurants, ice cream that hasn't been thawed and re-frozen several times, stable electricity, white-water rafting and lots of shopping.

I am not a shopper, per se, but I do enjoy the option -- particularly window-shopping.

Timor-Leste has lots and lots of potential -- in terms of becoming a tourist destination. It'll get there, one day. It has incredible landscapes, amazing coral reefs and friendly people.

Friday, April 30, 2010

May Day 2010 - Timor-Leste

Timorese workers braved the heat and humidity today to mark International Workers' Day or Labor Day.

Remembering Tajikistan 2007 on May Day

Mosaics like this in northern Tajikistan were created during the Soviet period as a public works project. Many of these colorful "works of art" still dot the countryside, but most are beginning to fade with time and no funds for restoration.

The guy below is also beginning to fade from view -- although he still stands guard outside a government building in Khujan, the second largest city in Tajikistan.
Pristine rivers like this one -- about 50 kilometers outside Dushanbe, the capital -- can turn into raging torrents after a heavy rain. This was a particularly beautiful May day in 2007. It goes without saying -- when the river rises -- the road disappears.
The road above leads to a trail that leads to the mountain lake below.

Delicious Tajik Dish

I got a craving the other day for this Tajik dish that I first had in northern Tajikistan. It's called Kurutob. Served in a hand-made wooden bowl, take pieces of naan, mix with yogurt and then put in onions and greens and -- here's the healthy part -- cover with very hot butter or oil -- and don't forget to put some salt on top. Don't forget the red hot chili pepper! This is a dish you'd probably want to have only once a year -- just to preserve your arteries.


Trio of Kittens

Vopros in the foreground, Lichtenstein at left and Wolfenstein

Thursday, April 29, 2010

Sunset on April 25

A mangrove just east of Dili at sunset.

Moments of Clarity

I never thought I would ever say this, but….I am tired of endless days of summer and blue skies, not to mention the heat and humidity.

I write these lines as I sit at my desk and enjoy a glorious rain storm that has been going on for the past 20 minutes. I’d forgotten how much I miss a gray sky and rain.

I miss, too, the coziness of the rain. I'm reminded of curling up with a good book at my grandmother’s house – sitting by the window next to the giant holly tree in the side yard.

For me, the Dili heat prevents everything except the shortest of walks – although I see a number of brave expats – jogging or playing soccer in the heat – their red faces contorted by the near non-existent breeze and high humidity.

The distant roar of thunder accompanies this rain storm and it, too, is most enjoyable. Where’s the lightning?

The rain is easing up now – the air is fresh – there is the fragrance of flowers – the leaves on the trees are bright green – the rain having washed away the dust.

My brain clears -- I'm able to focus more sharply -- as if the rain has cleared away the routine of the day.

More thunder – it’s closer now. Still no lightning.

Overhead, the rain drips from the mango leaves onto the roof. It's nice to have a break in the routine.

Sunday, April 25, 2010

Thursday, April 22, 2010

The Deluge

I am always struck by the force of the rain in the tropics. On a tin roof, it can be deafening, yet enchanting. There is something about the force of the raindrops on the roof and the way it splatters onto the concrete with such power. It makes a statement. I'm here! Listen to me!

It has a rhythm -- the sound as it strikes the roof and the way it moves once it hits the ground.

The rain in Dili is getting more and more rare even though we are still in the midst of the rainy season. You can see that the mountains are getting plenty of rain -- from the swollen, muddy streams that flow through Dili and from the thick fog hanging on the mountains south of town.

The rain slows things down -- those on motorbikes take cover, cars slow down and just now a confused rooster started crowing as the dark clouds grew even more dark.

I like the rain. It reminds me of sitting on my grandma's porch on a summer day -- watching the down spout carry buckets and buckets of water from the roof -- as the cows in the pasture land across the way -- kept grazing -- seemingly not to notice.

Tuesday, April 20, 2010

Pig On the Beach

K-41 or Kilometer marker 41 is a great place to snorkel and dive. Just wade out a few feet, stick your head in the water and you get a WOW moment. Go early before anyone gets there and you'll see zillions of colorful fish -- the reef is always awesome -- with a sharp drop-off of some 40 to 50 feet. The fish love to hang about the wall of the "abyss" as I call it.K-41 is not just a favorite place for snorkelers and divers. Pigs, too, love it as do goats and cows. These two pictures were snapped a couple of weeks ago at K-41 beach.

A Little Bit of Paradise

Turn off the main thoroughfare in Dili, drive up a dusty, narrow road with a green-painted fence made out of tin on one side and a cinder-block wall on the other -- turn right at the tiny banana grove and you've reached this little traditional house.

I'm not sure if the little boy lives in the house, but he really wanted to pose in front of it, so I snapped away.

There are a number of these little places around Dili -- often located off the main roads -- and down an alleyway.

Tuesday, April 13, 2010

Time Machines

I didn't realize it when I was a kid that all the songs that I heard on the radio would one day become little 2-3 minute time machines.

It happens all the time.

The other day on my Ipod, Jefferson Airplane's obscure 1960's song, Two Heads, came on and transported me back to a little hardware store in my hometown. It was there in 1968 or 69 that I first heard the 45 rpm. The smells of seeds and horse feed came back to me and I could see myself watching RCA's Nipper spin around on the record player.

For some reason, it was the first record I ever bought. I was nine years old. I think I liked the way Grace Slick kind of belted out the lyrics and the strange sound of the guitars and keyboard. I'm not even sure why the hardware store was selling records and record players.

A few minutes after Two Heads, Convenient Parking by Modest Mouse popped up on the Ipod -- it took me back to Tajikistan -- bouncing along on a twisting, dusty mountain road -- with boulders on both sides -- and painted on these rocks were the words "landmine. danger." written in Russian. No convenient parking there -- just stay in the road -- don't even pull the edge.

Paul McCartney's silly song Uncle Albert/Admiral Halsey takes me back to the summer of 1971 -- and visiting my elderly grandfather in the hospital every Sunday. Most times, this time machine clicks in relating to the first time I heard a particular song, but not always. George Harrison's Dark Horse takes me back to the time my mom had just returned from Miami and brought me not just the single, but the entire album!

Hearing the Ozark Mountain Daredevils self-titled album -- the one with Jackie Blue on it -- takes me back to my grandma's porch. Listening to songs like Road to Glory and in the background -- the gurgling mountain stream -- across the bridge and beyond the dirt road -- my dad's Charolais cattle picking grass in the bottom land.

Or those long drives through the Virginia countryside heading to Washington, DC singing along to Hey Jude. Nah, nah, nah, nah, nah, nah, nah, nah, nah, nah, Hey Jude!!!!!