Sunday, October 2, 2011

Return to High Rock

It was an absolutely perfect day for a hike today!
Hike Destination: The High Rock
The gray skies turned to an azure blue and the 40 degree temperature climbed to a comfortable 60. The trail, itself, an old logging road -- was challenging in that it was heavily grown over with blackberry and raspberry briars and small, prickly locust trees -- at one point -- it required crawling on hands and knees under the briars. The hike was approximately four miles, round-trip.

Once on top of the mountain, a four-wheeler trail led through the woods and up to the magnificent rock -- the High Rock.  It slowly comes into view as you start to crest the forested hill just to the south of the rock. The northeastern side of the rock was covered with lichen while the southwestern side was clean -- except for holes bored into the stone.  One was a perfect circle, the other looked more haphazard.

I had heard that Native Americans had cut a turkey foot into the stone, so Jack, my hiking partner, and I searched as much of the large stone as possible.  It reaches 30 to 40 feet into the air -- and appears to have been some sort of spiritual or special site.  Suddenly, about 12 feet up on the southern side of the rock, I spotted a cross. Does it represent the four directions -- North, South, East and West?  It is difficult to say -- and we have no way of dating this petroglyph.

According to the Cherokee, who lived in this part of North Carolina,  each of the four main directions corresponds to a color, and each color is a symbol. For instance, East, triumph, red; North, defeat, blue; West, death, black; and South, peace, white.
Notice the cross carved in the stone. The work of Native Americans?

Another view of the cross carved on High Rock.

About five feet to the right of the cross was what appears to be the turkey foot. It is extremely difficult to make out and was almost impossible to photograph, but the cuts in the stone appear to be a turkey foot.  The Cherokee apparently considered the turkey as very sacred.

Two holes on the southwestern side of the rock.

View of High Rock from the southwest
I had visited the high rock several times, but this was the first time I spotted the petroglyphs.  Are they ancient or from our more recent past?  I'd like to think they are the former.  There is no doubt that the place is special.  It's a challenging hike, but well worth the effort -- if only for the view!

Sunday, September 18, 2011

Cherokee Nation Dancers

I wanted to share another beautiful dance with you that I recorded at the Southeast Tribes Festival in Cherokee, North Carolina this past weekend.

Cherokee Festival

I used to avoid the Cherokee Reservation in North Carolina.  Too commercial, not much real culture on display.
The Southeast Tribal Festival in Cherokee, NC

However, I drove to the reservation on Saturday for the multi-nation Tribal Festival and was pleasantly surprised. I had a blast. If you avoid the ticky-tacky souvenir shops, it was like stepping into a different country for a few hours: the colorful traditional clothing, the dancing and hypnotic chanting, the storytelling and the first Indian tacos I'd had in 15 years. Fry bread is greasy, but oh so delicious. It's something you eat maybe twice a year.

Here's a short video of one dance. The chanting is very hypnotic and peaceful.


The most unusual part of the festival was the stick ball game. It's like a cross between lacrosse, soccer and American football. It's played with small lacross-like sticks and a tiny ball that appeared to be the size of a walnut. It requires keen eyesight.

Here are a few pictures from Saturday's festival in Cherokee, North Carolina.

Blowgun Competition

Youngsters carry on the traditional dancing.

Choctaw Nation Dancers

Colorful clothing

Storytelling with a flute as a prop.

Stick Ball is a contact sport!

It's played barefoot.
The ball is just in front of the player with the blue shorts, above his wooden racket.

A Dangerous Path?

As we reflect this month on the 9/11 attacks, it's worth thinking about where we are headed as a nation since 9/11. Fear has been a driving force in our policies aimed at rooting out terrorists and terror plots.

Slowly, but steadily, it is leading to less and less freedom for all of us.

Since 9/11 literally dozens and dozens of new government-financed programs have sprouted up -- with nearly a million employees. We have no idea how much money is being spent (billions no doubt), how much duplication is involved and most importantly, how effective these new programs are in terms of keeping us safe.

We appear to be spending our way into bankruptcy.  It reminds me of what was said after the fall of the Soviet Union -- something along the lines of:  'we spent them into bankruptcy'. Is this al-Qaeda's end-game?


Dana Priest and William Arkin have written a book, Top Secret America, that is a well-researched piece of investigative journalism. A must-read for those of us concerned about our country becoming something we no longer recognize -- all in the name of national security.

Thursday, September 8, 2011

Where Were You?

The September 11th tragedy is one of those events that was so catastrophic one will always remember where they were when it first happened.

I was at home in suburban Washington, DC and had just opened the Washington Post homepage and saw a photo of a plane striking one of the twin towers. My first thought -- someone had hacked into the website and inserted the photo. A few seconds later, I got a call from my mom. Information was still sketchy. Was it an accident?  I hung up and then got a call from my managing editor at AP. "Get here as quickly as you can," he said. 

I was ready for work, so I jumped in my car and drove to my Metro station. I recall flipping on the radio to National Public Radio, but there was nothing.

A few minutes later, I am on the Metro for the 20 minute ride into DC.  The train was eerily quiet. One rider, a middle-aged man, was listening to the radio on headsets and periodically, he would relay what he heard to the rest of us on the train. No one spoke except the man listening to the radio. There was something about a suspicious car parked in front of the U.S. State Department -- a plane was flying toward DC. It was frightening.

Then, the train pulled into Rhode Island station. The station is above ground and off in the distance -- I could see a huge black cloud of smoke. I remember it being so black and so big. I'd never seen anything like it.

It was 9:37am. I did not know it at the time, but American Airlines Flight 77 had just struck the Pentagon.

What I did know is that something terrible was happening and I needed to get to work. This may sound strange, but my biggest fear was that my Metro train would terminate service before my station stop and I would have to literally run dozens of blocks to the Associated Press office. 

We approached Union Station  -- stopped -- and then continued on and finally arrived at my stop, Farragut North.  I ran the two blocks to my office and burst into the newsroom. 

TV monitors were showing the planes striking the Twin Towers, one of our reporters had witnessed the plane flying into the Pentagon from the balcony of his condo. He was being interviewed on the phone -- describing in detail what he had seen. It was surreal. Is this happening? When am I going to wake up? In the background, the news channels kept playing the same video over and over. I am trying to make sense of it all, knowing that within a few minutes I would have to go on the radio and calmly tell listeners what was happening. 

For the next 12 hours or so, I somehow managed to do my job. It was probably the most difficult day of my life -- in terms of trying to remain coherent and calm while inside -- I am refusing to accept what I am seeing before me -- It really felt like I was part of a movie and at some point, the director would shout: "cut."

By the time I finished anchoring -- some 11 or 12 hours of coverage -- I was mentally exhausted.  My head was filled with all the sounds and images from our reporters and the TV.  Walking onto K Street that night, the air was refreshing -- it was so quiet.

Half a block down the street from my office, I was shaken by what I saw: troops were parked in military vehicles at the intersection of K and 18th Street. I seem to recall seeing an anti-aircraft gun.  It was shocking.  One just didn't see such things in America.

It was almost as if what I was seeing confirmed everything that I had been describing on the radio for the past 12 hours.  Sitting inside a studio -- in a cocoon-like environment -- I had been isolated, in one respect from what was happening, but walking onto the street and seeing the troops -- somehow -- made it all real.

What do you recall from that day? 

Feel free to share.

Click here to listen to real time audio from September 11.

Sunday, September 4, 2011

Lexington Avenue Arts and Fun Festival aka LAAFF



Bang the Drum Slowly
Three blocks of fun with plenty of fashion statements made for a day of laughs and inspiration at a little festival in Asheville called LAAFA or Lexington Avenue Arts and Fun Festival. There were dueling knights on bicycles, fire dancers, gypsy music, silver-plated mimes and a cacophony of costumes.
Fire Dance
If this was a bit too much, just head three blocks east to the City-County Plaza for Shindig on the Green -- a mountain music program that featured square dancing, cloggers and lots of banjo pickers.
High School Bluegrass Band from Marshall, NC

Asheville's diversity was certainly on display this weekend.  Here are photos from both events.
Come Here, My Dear!

Knights on Bikes

Juggler in Cowboy Boots on Ball with Knives

Now in High Heels
Balance

Sun Painting
Balloon Man
Gypsy Band
Bottle Cap Truck
Vega
Storyteller/Singer/Songwriter Joe Penland

Do you Mime?
Trial by Fire


Sunday, August 28, 2011

Forbidden Caverns

As the thermometer was approaching 90 degrees, I decided to find a place to cool off.  I went underground. Caverns.  Specifically, a placed called Forbidden Caverns just outside Newport, Tennessee, where the temperature 600 feet beneath the surface is a cool -- 58 degrees.

It was fantastic. Lots of stalactites and stalagmites -- with colorful lights to give them an otherworldly glow; low ceilings, narrow passages, dripping water and an underground creek.

I highly recommend a trip underground to cool down or just to change your perspective of the world. There's a lot going on just beneath the surface.

Admittedly, I did think about that earthquake we had earlier this week. What if?  I soon dismissed the thought and enjoyed my cool subterranean surroundings.

Here are some pictures from down there:



 



Friday, August 26, 2011

Nature Calls

I've been hiking a lot since the first of the year, but this morning's hike was the mother lode. In my hikes, I've spotted squirrels, birds, snakes and chipmunks. Today, I spotted one bear, one fawn and a wild turkey. And no, I was not drinking Wild Turkey when I spotted the bear and deer!

There's a lot to be said about getting up and out early. Firstly, it's much cooler. With temperatures hitting the low 90's by mid-day, an early morning hike is the way to go -- particularly since the temperature is usually a mild 70 or so -- most mornings.

It was just such a morning.  I was standing in an old logging road in a remote area near Hot Springs, NC, when I heard twigs snapping in the rhododendron just ahead of me -- about 30 feet. Something was bounding down the bank at a fast clip -- deer? I thought.

Suddenly, a beautiful black bear came into view -- crossing the road and heading down the hillside into more thick bushes and rhododendron. Wow. It felt like the bear had been cued to bound across the road in front of me -- as if in a movie or a planned sighting. Absolutely amazing.  The bear was medium size and there was no time to snap a photo since this all happened within about 3 seconds.  I waited a few moments to make sure the bear didn't have company and then proceeded along the trail.

30 minutes or so after this encounter, I heard furious wing-flapping off to my left. I look up and to my left just in time to spot a wild turkey taking flight. Further along, as I was wrapping up my hike, I thought I spotted what appeared to be a large dog about 20 yards in front of me. As it came into view, I realized it was a fawn. We stared at each other for a second or two, before it moved off the road and across the forest.

My biggest fear now is chiggers.

There were a lot of weeds and plants along the trail and those little critters love to catch a ride and then create an incredible itch that lasts three or four days.

I just jumped out of a hot shower. Hopefully, I won't spot any signs of them.

Thursday, August 25, 2011

Eat a Peach

I had forgotten what it was like to eat a delicious peach.

The taste came back to me the other day when I bit into a ripe yellow peach from South Carolina. The juice ran down the side of my mouth and the flavor sent my taste buds into heaven. It was a case in which the memory of a good tasting peach simply couldn't do justice to the actual taste. (It's usually the other way around!)

After the rediscovery of what a real peach tastes like, I hopped in my car and drove straight to the farmer's market where I bought one bushel of peaches -- Yellow Flesh and Freestone varieties (also called O.Henry).

O. Henry wrote at least one short story about peaches. Little Speck In Garnered Fruit is about newlyweds on their honeymoon and the bride asks her husband to find her a ripe peach, but it's early spring and he struggles to find even one. Read it here:

http://www.readbookonline.net/readOnLine/14968/

I can relate to O. Henry's bridegroom character. I've found myself on a mission to find a specific fruit or vegetable in some of the places where I have lived over the past ten years. In Timor-Leste, it was grapes. Here in the states, I miss Central Asian cherries.

This morning, I am savoring those ripe South Carolina peaches. I am on my fourth one. They are so addicting and I think before too long, I'll be back at the farmer's market. Peach season will soon be gone :(



Saturday, August 20, 2011

Up Close

A snail's pace




 An after-sunrise walk this morning along the dirt road near the house, revealed some beautiful wild flowers along the roadside.
Warming Up on a Cool Morning

Split Ends

Shades of Blue

Friday, August 19, 2011

Pow! Pow! Pow!

The View from Here
I live on a beautiful hilltop over looking a tree-covered mountain. I love to sit outside and surf the net or, as I've been doing lately, read Tim Winton books. I just finished Dirt Music and just started Cloudstreet. He paints with words -- an example from Cloudstreet: "All day they travel. Their bones brittle up with the jolts. Limestone dust flies into the trees. Out of Capel, the smoke from a brushfire comes downwind in a spiritous column, like a train passing. Past the emaciated glitter of creeks, into the heat ahead, the bluewhite nothing of distance, they travel."

It's like poetry written in prose.

These two books, and I expect his others, too, provide a glimpse into Australian life. Cloudstreet reminds me a bit of Steinbeck's Grapes of Wrath -- working class people struggling to feed their families in the years after the depression.

Winton is the second Australian writer I've read recently.

I was loaned a copy of Christos Tsiolkas' The Slap a few months ago and found it absolutely brilliant. Tsiolkas takes a domestic incident and describes it from eight different perspectives. The Slap is very much in your face -- in terms of the writing style. At times, it was shocking, particularly the language that some of the characters used, but not offensive. I think the "shock factor" was due mostly to the fact that my previous six or seven books had been works of classic literature -- Dostoyevsky,  Chekhov, Stefan Zweig, Adolfo Bioy Casres and Thomas Mann.

The Slap, which I enjoyed tremendously, takes a look at contemporary life in Australia. 


Anyway, so I am currently reading Cloudstreet -- sitting outside on the hillside -- overlooking these wonderful mountains and suddenly the calm is interrupted by -- POW POW POW. 


My neighbor, who lives a quarter of a mile away, is target practicing with his high-powered rifle. He pops off about a dozen rounds and he's done.

Having lived away from the states for a number of years -- the sound of a gun takes some getting used to...

Sunday, August 14, 2011

Submission: A New Definition

Michele Bachmann, one of the eight or so GOP presidential hopefuls, has made up her own definition of the word "submissive."  According to Oxford it means: "the action or fact of accepting or yielding to a superior force or to the will or authority of another person."  Bachmann's definition of submission is "respect."


It's yet another example of politicians creating their own truth and in this case their own definition of a word. 

It happened the other evening in Iowa when a conservative columnist asked Bachmann what she meant by her vow to be submissive to her husband.  The audience booed the question, then Bachmann replied "what submission means to me -- if that's what your question is -- it means respect."


She needs to look up the definition. 

Yet, what is more troubling than her answer is that the national press corps is letting her slide on it. No one, as far as I know, is calling her on it. It's really shameful. You'd think among the dozens of journalists following her campaign -- at least one would ask her the simple follow-up question: "if elected president, who will be making the decisions -- Bachmann or her husband?"

Bachmann, herself, created this whole situation -- recalling how she hated the idea of pursuing a degree in tax law and saying she did so only because her husband told her to.  "The Lord says, Be submissive, wives. You are to be submissive to your husbands," she explained.  That response begs the question -- who will be calling the shots at the White House if she is elected.

Bachmann is entitled to her religious beliefs, but she is not entitled to dodge a question about presidential power. She opened this discussion and the media have a duty to call her on it.

Come on colleagues -- step up and hold her accountable. For too long, politicians have been allowed to create their own truth and not be challenged by the media.

Saturday, August 6, 2011

Haunting Music from Suai

Nearly two years ago, I flew to the south coast of East Timor to participate in the opening of a media house for journalists. The organization that I worked for at the time, had opened several of these facilities across the country and this was the latest. At all of the openings, there was always traditional dance and music -- a truly wonderful time, each time.

The ceremony in Suai remains fresh in my mind because of the music and dance. It was quite haunting in some ways -- three men singing, one of them playing a traditional stringed instrument and six young girls dancing to the music -- appearing to be in a hypnotic trance.

I was fortunate to have my camera handy and captured a portion of the performance.

Sunday, July 31, 2011

Storm Rollin' In


The sound of not-to-distant thunder rumbles toward the west where the clouds are dark and threatening. Lightning lights up the twilight sky as if a million camera flashes are going off all at once.  The smell of rain is in the air. A burst of wind brings the leaves on the poplar trees alive – a sound similar to the arrival of rain.  The thunder rolls on – becoming distant, the night creatures turn the forest into a cacophony of percussion-sounding instruments.  The rain is coming. Slowly. The rain drops gently tap the metal roof. The mountain air is cool and fresh.
(My first night back in the mountains of Western North Carolina after five weeks in tropical Timor-Leste)

Tuesday, July 26, 2011

Hypnotic Yogyakarta

This recording was made in October 2010 inside the palace grounds in Yogyakarta. The city is one of my favorite places to be.