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Wednesday, November 2, 2011
Monday, October 31, 2011
Sunday, October 30, 2011
Moldova: Shepherd With His Flock
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I was walking along a grassy area outside the village of Giurgiulesti in southern-most Moldova and a shepherd came walking up with his flock of sheep. The song is traditional Moldovan music.
Moldova: Greeting
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Upon arrival in the village of Giurgiulesti, I was greeted by a group of students with salt and bread. It's a traditional greeting -- a way to welcome a guest after a long journey.
These young men are dressed in traditional Moldovan clothing -- with a beautiful piece of cloth that is under the bread -- it has been hand stitched.
The boots are absolutely cool!
These young men are dressed in traditional Moldovan clothing -- with a beautiful piece of cloth that is under the bread -- it has been hand stitched.
The boots are absolutely cool!
Thursday, October 27, 2011
Moldova: More Homemade Wine!
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My stay in Moldova has been an absolute thrill and delight.
I spent most of my time sampling homemade wine from my wonderful hosts in the village of Giurgiulesti. Almost every family I met makes their own wine and takes great pride in doing so -- they also love to share it.
On my last evening in the village, I was invited to my colleague Monika's house.
The wine this particular night might just be the best I tasted all week -- although, I can't be sure. It was absolutely superb though. It was a rich dark red color -- after about 30 days in the wine barrel.
Each family has its own wine cellar -- with a wooden barrel with a tap. Need wine? Just walk downstairs with a plastic jug and fill 'er up.
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| The wine in this plastic jug might just be the best I had all week! |
On my last evening in the village, I was invited to my colleague Monika's house.
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| I savored every sip. |
The wine this particular night might just be the best I tasted all week -- although, I can't be sure. It was absolutely superb though. It was a rich dark red color -- after about 30 days in the wine barrel.
Tuesday, October 25, 2011
Moldova: Cold
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The cold has descended on the village of Giurgiulesti in southern Moldova; however, the heat has just barely come on at the house where I am staying. The radiators are lukewarm, but at least they knock off the chill. For some reason, my hosts decided the best solution last evening was to give me two plastic bottles filled with hot water rather than to turn on the gas furnace. If the furnace is anything like the one I had in Tajikistan, it's complicated and a bit of the dangerous side.
As for those two bottles: "for the feet," my host said.
Thankfully, I had packed thermal clothing and a good knit cap. They helped tremendously.
This morning, my host proudly announced that he would turn the heat on today and sure enough, at lunch time, the place was slightly warmer than cold.
As for those two bottles: "for the feet," my host said.
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| "For the feet!" |
This morning, my host proudly announced that he would turn the heat on today and sure enough, at lunch time, the place was slightly warmer than cold.
Moldova: Shepherd
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I was walking along the river Prut at Giurgiulesti village and came across Okasani tending her sheep in the high grass along the river bank.
The village sits at the confluence of the Prut and Danube Rivers. The rivers provide Moldova with its only access to the sea -- in this case the Black Sea -- Moldova is otherwise land-locked.
The village sits at the confluence of the Prut and Danube Rivers. The rivers provide Moldova with its only access to the sea -- in this case the Black Sea -- Moldova is otherwise land-locked.
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| The River Prut -- that's Romania on the left side of the river. |
Monday, October 24, 2011
Moldova: A village funeral
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Within hours of arriving in the southern-most village in Moldova, called Giurgiulesti, I saw a funeral procession along the main street, the only paved street in the village.
The funeral was for an elderly lady and it included her family and friends as well as the priest -- walking along the edge of the busy street -- carrying her open casket -- on their way to the village cemetery. At the very back of the procession, a woman carried a metal bucket full of wine -- that she gave to people along the procession route as they made their way to the graveyard.
I visited the cemetery earlier in the day and was told by my colleague that each Monday after Easter -- the entire village gathers at the cemetery to honor their dead relatives -- there are even picnic tables set up among the gravestones -- where the families bring a feast of food to celebrate the life of their loved ones.
Some families also have feasts at the cemetery on the anniversary of their loved ones' death. Wine is very important in this ceremony as well -- with the family sharing wine together and pouring wine on the grave.
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| A funeral procession for an elderly woman in Giurgiulesti |
The funeral was for an elderly lady and it included her family and friends as well as the priest -- walking along the edge of the busy street -- carrying her open casket -- on their way to the village cemetery. At the very back of the procession, a woman carried a metal bucket full of wine -- that she gave to people along the procession route as they made their way to the graveyard.
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| The open casket is carried by loved ones. |
I visited the cemetery earlier in the day and was told by my colleague that each Monday after Easter -- the entire village gathers at the cemetery to honor their dead relatives -- there are even picnic tables set up among the gravestones -- where the families bring a feast of food to celebrate the life of their loved ones.
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| Picnic tables are set up at many family tombstones for the after-Easter feast. |
Some families also have feasts at the cemetery on the anniversary of their loved ones' death. Wine is very important in this ceremony as well -- with the family sharing wine together and pouring wine on the grave.
Moldova: Great Homemade Wine and Many Toasts!
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If you stand on the hillside along the village you can easily look over into Ukraine to the left and Romania off to the right. Tudor, my home-stay host, said “this is one of only seven places in the world where there is such a triangle. It immediately reminded me of the similar geographical border at Thailand-Burma and Cambodia.
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| Constantine starts with Moldovian Cognac |
Constantine brought out a two liter plastic bottle filled with wine and placed it under the table. It was brought out after all the glasses on the table had been filled with Moldovan cognac. “It’s the best Moldovan cognac,” he assured me, “the best.” It was the same brand that I had had the night before at my home-stay in the village of Giurgiulesti – the southern-most point in Moldova – and also the confluence of the Prut and Danube Rivers.
If you stand on the hillside along the village you can easily look over into Ukraine to the left and Romania off to the right. Tudor, my home-stay host, said “this is one of only seven places in the world where there is such a triangle. It immediately reminded me of the similar geographical border at Thailand-Burma and Cambodia.
After a couple of toasts with the Moldovan cognac, Constantine, who had thrown a party with his wife, reached for the plastic bottle of wine under the table and began pouring it into glasses – slightly bigger than shot glasses. The wine had a rich dark red color and I expected it would be quite sweet.
It was not.
It had a rich flavor and Constantine proudly announced it was from his own grapes – and it was from this year’s crop.
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| Grapes and Wine! |
In between the toasts, we had quite a feast – minced meat, chicken, mashed potatoes, cabbage, potato salad – heavy on the eggs and imitation crab meat (delicious by the way), grapes from his vineyard and all sorts of Ukrainian chocolates.
I lost count after five or six toasts with the red homemade wine – and as I got up from the table and walked to the car – Constantine tapped me on the shoulder and said – ‘wait, wait, I will be right back.”
He returned shortly with the still half-filled plastic bottle of home-made wine (the second plastic bottle of home-made wine) and said we must finish it. Just when I thought I could drink no more – he first poured one glass, then half a glass and then another full glass of wine. Wow. Between myself, Constantine and Tudor, we finished it off, but I’m not sure how we did it. It had been a long time since I had drunk so much wine, but the thing is – Moldovan wine is so good – it is hard to stop.
The next morning…..
I’m impressed with the home-made wine. There is no hangover!
Monday, October 17, 2011
Istanbul
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If you've ever been to Istanbul, you've experienced the Call to Prayer.
It is quite a spiritual experience even for those who don't consider themselves religious.
I've been to Istanbul many times and have experienced the Call to Prayer at all hours of the day and night. It's a great early morning wake up call!
This video is from a visit a few years ago. I recorded it near the Blue Mosque and added images and video -- including some Sufu dancing that I recorded at the old train station in Sultanahmet -- my favorite part of the city.
In my recording, the Call to Prayer starts at the Blue Mosque, but throughout the recording -- you will begin to hear the Call to Prayer start at other mosques around the city. It is quite enchanting to experience it live.
It is quite a spiritual experience even for those who don't consider themselves religious.
I've been to Istanbul many times and have experienced the Call to Prayer at all hours of the day and night. It's a great early morning wake up call!
This video is from a visit a few years ago. I recorded it near the Blue Mosque and added images and video -- including some Sufu dancing that I recorded at the old train station in Sultanahmet -- my favorite part of the city.
In my recording, the Call to Prayer starts at the Blue Mosque, but throughout the recording -- you will begin to hear the Call to Prayer start at other mosques around the city. It is quite enchanting to experience it live.
Sunday, October 16, 2011
Tennessee: Bears in the Woods
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I saw my second and third bears of the year, yesterday, in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park -- and they were up close!
A cub and her mom were hanging out in a tree when I spotted them along the Laurel Falls trail. Shortly afterward, momma bear decided it was high time to climb down -- baby bear quickly followed her.
A handful of tourists took off up the trail, but most stuck around to see what would happen. Basically, the bears ignored the tourists and shutterbugs and hung around under the tree for a while.
I walked on up to the falls -- nice, but not spectacular -- too crowded.
Earlier in the day, I was caught in a traffic jam on the parkway. It must have been four or five miles long -- apparently another bear and its cub were along the roadway and everything came to a stop. It felt like being back in DC on the Beltway -- this delay was 90 minutes, but the view was worth it -- amazing fall colors.
At the higher elevations in North Carolina and Tennessee, this is/was probably the peak weekend.
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| Momma Bear along the Laurel Falls path |
A cub and her mom were hanging out in a tree when I spotted them along the Laurel Falls trail. Shortly afterward, momma bear decided it was high time to climb down -- baby bear quickly followed her.
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| Come on down! |
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| Not too close..... |
Earlier in the day, I was caught in a traffic jam on the parkway. It must have been four or five miles long -- apparently another bear and its cub were along the roadway and everything came to a stop. It felt like being back in DC on the Beltway -- this delay was 90 minutes, but the view was worth it -- amazing fall colors.
Monday, October 3, 2011
Bascom Lamar Lunsford Festival
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It was a cold day in Mars Hill, North Carolina on Saturday, but the outdoor music went on -- right on schedule. After all, it was the Bascom Lamar Lunsford Festival. Lunsford was a musician and collector of folk songs. He was probably the biggest promoter of Southern Appalachian music.
I think he would have been proud of Saturday's program.
Musician and storyteller Joe Penland of Marshall led a group of ballad singers as they sat around in rocking chairs swapping stories and songs. There was musicians playing that traditional "mountain" instrument -- the hammered dulcimer and -- plenty of guitars and banjos.
I happened to wander up as George and Brooke Buckner took the stage and captured this tune.
I think he would have been proud of Saturday's program.
Musician and storyteller Joe Penland of Marshall led a group of ballad singers as they sat around in rocking chairs swapping stories and songs. There was musicians playing that traditional "mountain" instrument -- the hammered dulcimer and -- plenty of guitars and banjos.
I happened to wander up as George and Brooke Buckner took the stage and captured this tune.
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